My last post was about making the rudder and daggerboards for the
Argie 15. While I was doing that work, Kevin Agee was making good progress on the bottom. He has glassed all of the outside seams, sanded, filled and faired them so that the chines are smooth and fair curves, cut the daggerboard slot and installed the bottom runners and skeg.
This work all needs to be nicely done because the hard chine edges are what defines a hull like this. Unfair and wavy edges with lumps and bumps catch the eye very quickly and also cast odd shadow lines, spoiling the overall look of the finished boat. It is worthwhile taking this work slowly and being very happy with your own work before moving on to the next step.
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The tapes have been sanded smooth and the tape edges have been feathered. |
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If this boat was to be clear-finished then sanding and feathering the tape edges is about as far as fairing can go before final epoxy coats and varnish are applied. Our boat will be painted, so fairing can be more conventional and more extensive. This photo shows epoxy fairing compound that has been applied then sanded down to fair it into the surface, making it completely disappear. |
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A closer view of a chine after fairing. It fills the slight hollow alongside the tape because of the two thicknesses of glass sitting on the surface of the plywood. |
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Runners glued to bottom. They are being held by temporary screws, assisted by a ratchet strap at the bow. |
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A sliding bar clamp in the daggerboard slot helps to keep the end of the centre runner in contact while the glue cures. |
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Sliding bar clamps secure the aft ends of the runners and skeg at the transom. The runners will be trimmed off flush. |
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Junction of the centre runner with the skeg. |
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The final coat of epoxy resin before turning the hull back upright for deck finishing. |
The next post will likely be about laminating the rubbing strakes to the gunwales and other finishing work on the decks and transom.
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