|Second layer of sheer clamp glued and clamped.|
|2nd Layer of the bottom glued and fastened with temporary screws and fender washers.|
|Crown molding #3 router bit sourced from Lee Valley.|
|Fit of the bead and cove strips cut with the router bit shown above.|
|The stem is still rectangular in section but has saw cuts to show the bevel angle needed by the skin.|
|The completed stem bevels, ready for the bead and cove strips.|
We started by clamping the strip with the lower edge flush with the lower edge of the straight aft sheer clamp. Forward of that aft sheer clamp, we slid the forward part of the strip up and down against the framing until we found the line that placed the least stress on the strip. In that position there is minimal force needed to pull the strip against the framing, so fitting is easy and the same should also be true for the rest of the skin.
|The first strip glued flush along the lower edge of the aft sheer clamp and the forward part aligned for least stress in the timber.|
|Starting to look good, with six strips fitted. The strips are run past the ends of the hull, then trimmed back after the epoxy has set.|
|With much of the hull skinned both sides, time to stop. The chine flat must be built first from Douglas fir, then the side strips will be finished against the chine.|
|Scarph joints in the strips to make hull-length strips. The strips are positioned to spread the scarph joints out so that they are not all in the same place on the boat.|
This design is not yet complete, so is not on our pricelist or website. See previous posts on this blog about the 26ft Sportfisherman for more info. See our full range of designs on our main website or our mobile website.