|Daggerboard blank, cut to outline shape and sanded smooth, ready for shaping.|
The daggerboard is shaped to an airfoil section below the hull and rectangular where it is inside the daggerboard slot. Similarly, the rudder blade is foil-shaped in the water and rectangular where it is inside the rudder stock. I did this shaping with a hand plane, a belt sander, a Japanese Shinto rasp and hand-sanding with a sanding block.
|The shaped daggerboard, foil section over most of its length, rectangular in the hull.|
Note all the sanding dust on the floor, which must all be vacuumed up before any glassing starts.
|The shaped rudder blade. Holes are for pivot bolt and up- and down-haul lines.|
|Glass fabric draped over rudder to glass both sides at the same time, meeting at the trailing edge.|
The daggerboard is a lot larger then the rudder, so maneuvering a piece of glass fabric large enough to cover both sides and weighed down with epoxy would be very awkward, so I chose to glass that one side at a time. I laid the board on a sheet of plastic to protect my workbench from droplets of epoxy. Doing one side at a time allowed me to lay the dry glass over the whole of one side of the board, wetting it out with epoxy in place. I supported the glass that was projecting past the trailing edge with a spacer under the plastic sheet, to stop the glass from drooping, which would mess up the clean trailing edge that is needed.
|First side of the daggerboard glassed.|
|Glass-taping the leading edge and bottom of the daggerboard. This batch of epoxy went off faster than I expected due to warmer air temperature, so the glass is a bit rough in places, needing more sanding.|
|Daggerboard and rudder after 3 coats of epoxy, before final sanding.|
|Shaped timber handle pieces glued to both sides of the daggerboard. The board has been sanded to ready it for finishing with varnish.|