As part of the process, low spots are filled with lightweight epoxy filler, thereby reducing the amount of material that must be sanded off surrounding areas to smooth out the surface.
Boat with the pox. The grey patches are areas where hollows have been filled and then sanded flush. |
The chine is also faired as part of fairing the hull sides. This is done by first trimming off the overlapping side planking at the chine, then planing them flush with the planks of the chine flat. Any unfairness in the chine flat must be faired by sanding/filling, the same as for the side planking. The hull will be glass-sheathed, so the hard corner of the chine must be rounded off to a radius suitable for the glass fabric.
Also forming part of the fairing process is filling in the holes where temporary screw have been removed. This is normally done by injecting or squeezing filled epoxy into the holes, then sanding smooth. Kevin used an alternative method that is quicker and easier. He used wooden golf tees, epoxied into the holes. After the epoxy has cured the tees are cut off flush.
Another job that is going on is fitting the keel runner. The runner is laminated in place on the hull from two 20mm (3/4") thicknesses but it needs a flat surface on the hull centerline onto which it can be bonded. This flat is rough-formed with a power plane then finished with a hand plane. The flat is continued all the way to the tip of the stem. In the forefoot area the runner tapers off and fairs into the hull to become a laminated stem capping. The stem capping must follow the tight curves of the stem profile, so it has to be done in much thinner strips than can be used for the keel runner.
The keel runner being glued in place onto the flat that has been planed on hull centerline. The chine flat is also being faired. |
First layer of the stem capping has been glued on |
Final shape starting to show due to crisper lines to catch the eye. |
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